sábado, 5 de noviembre de 2011

Parra


Parra
This is where I have been tucked away for the past month. It is a house deep in Primary rain forest which I had the privilege of living in. I spent a total of three weeks there, with a short three day break between the first week and the second two. I will never forget my time there, and all it taught me. 
The Food
First and foremost, this may have been the area of greatest challenge and growth for me. I ate the same simple meal every meal of every day.  The meal consisted of 5 boiled bananas and some uca (potato). Occasionally the uca was replaced with papa china (a different kind of potato) and towards the end we started also eating camote (sweat potato!). Often for lunch and dinner Goosman would prepare edible leaves and plants for us to eat. 
I am not sure how it works, but I probably ate a third of what I would normally eat in a day and always felt full. I would chew each bite, thinking on it and its sustenance, before taking the next. In this way I never felt hungry after a meal, and rarely between meals. If I only need so little to survive and maintain an active lifestyle (granted not nearly as active as my life sometimes is) where has all that food I have been eating my whole life gone?
To eat only the same bland food for two weeks was difficult at first. I had little choice but to quickly learn to control my cravings for pizza and Ice cream. The time I have spent in my life on the trail has been filled with food fantasies of the outside world, and here simple bean burritos and jars of peanut butter were the subject of my longing day and night. I fought these feelings by cultivating the attitude that I was eating to sustain myself, learning to truly taste everything I ate and meditating to control my thoughts. I learned to taste the sweet flavor in plain boiled potato. With much time and conscious effort I reached a mentality where could catch a thought of temptation about to form in my head, and stop it in its tracks, leaving my mind free of miserable, helpless longing.
By the time I had left that place I had eaten so faithfully only what the land produced that the soil I worked made up the blood that ran through my veins. I think that’s right, I don´t really know how often blood cells replace themselves, but either way it was a powerful connection.
Goosman
Goosman was the only human company I had for my time at Parra. Goosman was not Kichwa but Suah. For years in his home community he suffered from a strange illness where he was constantly cold. Despite living at the equator he would always wear sweat shirts, and still never be warm. The hospital did blood and urine tests, but could find nothing out of the ordinary. He left his home to search a cure, and found it in Carlos (the Kichwa shaman who owns Parra). Carlos practiced ancient cleansing rituals on Goosman, and now he only feels occasional cold in his feet on chilly mornings. Rather than returning straight home, Goosman decided to spend the three weeks with me in this hidden paradise. He is a quiet, curious man, who enjoys laughing at the interactions between the animals. He knew much and more about the jungle and liked sharing it with me. He was silently dutiful and did most of the cooking. My time there would have been lonely and vacant without him.
What is most incredible is the bond Goosman and I now feel. Despite the language barrier, an age difference of nearly twenty years, being raised in entirely different cultures, and having very different personalities there is a closeness and connection between us that one does not feel for many people. We depended on each other. For some reason spending time beyond civilization, truly existing with another person adds a death to relations. 

The Mornings
I would rise with the sun at 6am, and stand by my window to see the gorgeous Amazon glowing gold with the morning sun. Before eating I would do simple daily work outs to tone my body and mind.
After breakfast we would walk together through the woods. Goosman had a six foot blow dart tube that he would use to hunt birds. We would walk through the jungle, listening and searching for birds through the endless walls of leaves around us. Goosman would occasionally teach me a little of the plants we lived surrounded by, and I would teach him simple phrases of English.
On relaxed days we would only walk the line of traps that Goosman had created and return to the house. Most days however we hike to either the river or the waterfall. Every time we visited one or the other I felt another revelation, and grew closer to the land which I so recently was a stranger to. There is a different ambiance to a river that is surrounded by forest that has never been destroyed. It holds a deeper, realer power. It is easier to believe in the magical power of nature. It is beyond me to describe the feeling of a waterfall that still remains an untouched ancient temple of an indigenous people. With every visit to the waterfall I felt an inner thrill and joy and at the same time clear and centered.
 I once doubted whether there was anything of real power or significance to the natural world, and felt that it could well be just a bunch of biomass replicating DNA. I now have felt with my mind and soul the deep flowing energy that exists in nature, and feel sure of its existence.

Afternoons
Once we returned from our daily adventure we ate lunch and rested. I would sit on my wooden stool and pass hours writing, reading Gandhi, meditating, and taking slow deeps gulps of the fresh water. There not much to write of my time on that stool (I was only sitting), but those hours were the most important of my time in Parra. I reached new levels of clearness and concentration, I thought deep and powerfully on the issues and thoughts most dear to me, I allowed new thoughts and revelations to come to me, and learnt so much just sitting in that stool. My time in that simple seat was the clearest, most restful and empowering of my life. To sit in such complete satisfaction was my daily pleasure.

Gandhi
 He is a man after my own heart. During my time there the only sources of input into my brain were Goosman (who wasn´t much of a talker) and Gandhi. The ways Gandhi has permanently impacted my life are possible beyond counting. I learned from him the value of complete and constant honesty, the joy of sacrifice, the importance of strict and spritual adherence to the laws of non-violence, to always look to your own actions when you see misery in the world, and much, much more. If I do nothing else in my life I must be sure I am always striving to keep alive the light in the world that began to glow with Gandhi.

Evenings
Goosman and I would practice Yoga together in the evenings, and then cook dinner. If we were lucky enough to have ripe bananas we would make a beautiful chakoola (a sort of water banana smoothie) for a fabulous and tasty desert. By that time it was dark, and when there are no lights you rise and sleep with the sun. Before bed we would lie on the floor together and I would teach English to Goosman by candle light (the candles and the fuel in Goodman’s lighter were the only external luxuries we used). We would be comfy cozy in bed by eight every night.

martes, 4 de octubre de 2011

BAÑOS

Banos was one hell of a good time, and in a very different way from Wisdom Forest.

Adventures:
Our first day there Bry and I rented a bugy (we were going to rent motorcycles, and it took us until we sat on them and tried to move to realize they are much more complicated than bikes with motors) and drove it up to the top of one of the numerous enourmous mountains surounding the city. up there we visted a tree house with the biggest swing I have ever seen, and drank milk that was hot from the cow grazing next to us. The way down was even more fun as gravity sped us down the windy mountain road
The same day I went bungi jumping. I fell 40m before the rope caught me. The memory is still sharp and vivid in my mind. I was starring straight down at the moss covered cliffs and gushing river below me. As I continued to fall and to fall, feeling the acceleration grip my stomach, that view of the cliffs and river was burnt deeper and deeper into my mind. There are few things as gripping as free falling.
To finish off the day we got hour long full body massages. It was my first profesional massage, and my body felt fesh, clean, and relaxed afterwards. When our hour was finished they let us lie in the beds for another half hour which was a time of complete physical satisfaction. I did notice the lack of the emotional connection I usually have with my massage partner.
Biking was short lived as Bryan´s bike broke a few miles into the trip and he had to walk it most of the way back. But for those short miles we zoomed down the almost all down hill road between Banos and Puyo with expanses of massive green mountains around us.
My final great adventure was paragliding. I can fly a paraligide even less than I can ride a motorcycle, so I was strapped to the man who was flying. So many times in my life I have looked at a cliff face, steep slope, or even the balcony at camden yards and wished I coould fly off it, and that fatefull day I did! the wind tugged us off the ground we soared aimlessly around for half an hour. whenever I looked at the ground below I would see it rushing by beneath me and get an uncontrolable thrill in my stomach which forced excited laughter out of me. Then I would look up at the mountains and the valcano in the distance and be silenced again by the awe of it all.

The Baths
Banos gets its name from the baths which are heated by the hot springs coming out of the valcano. Bry and I made nearly daily visits to these hot tub pools while we were in banos. The water was murky from its richness of nutrients, and you could feel the goodness soaking through you when you float in it. the options were very hot, super hot, and cold, which made for fun combinations of freezing gasps and burning shouts. in the end we would always setle down in the midle (very hot) and bob lifelessly up and down in utter relaxation

Pizza
Pizza is the food that has tied me and Bryan together since we met, and it runs thick through our veins. In honor of the blood pact we ate at least some pizza every night in Banos. While we did experiment with the down-town-sit-down-resturant pizza, by the end we had setled into habitualy downing huge quantities of Cow Pizza (a great name for a pizza store). It was square, delicous, and big.

Movies
aight so the hostel Transilvania has a huge asortment of great movies to chose from. we watched Thor, Book of Eli, Angels and Demons, Captain America, Basic Instict (it was my third time watching that one and I still wasn´t sure who done it), Wally, and Kill Bill Volume 1. We also watched part of Dark Night when it was playing in the common room, its legit one of the best movies ever. Ah! so good!

Jungle Trip
If that doesn´t sound like enough to fill up a week, its not. Our time in Banos was split up by a three day trip to the Jungle. However, since we weren´t in Banos for the trip it can´t fall under the Banos post, and more will be coming on that trip later

Over View
So hopefully my opening line made you curious enough to read all I wrote, and now I will tell you how Banos differed from Wisdom Forest. Banos was a place of sensation and thrill. It was a place of comfort and ingulgence. My hopes of eating less flew out the window in the face of all that pizza, and I even brok aqutarianism for cocacola twice! My memorable experiences there are of bungi jumping, paragliding, and other exciting activities. While all of these were great fun, there was litle deapth, connection, or emotion to them (not to mention cost me a great deal of money). The movies were all enjoyable, but are of course superficial in the face of real world interaction. For me, Banos was a vacation from the responsibility I have in living. While it was damn fun and I loved it, the city of Banos will always feel like my own tiny litle sin city.

ps. I don´t have much time and there´s no rea reason to edit, so enjoy my misspellings and typos

martes, 27 de septiembre de 2011

The Beard

I have shaved my beard and I am keeping it that way.

While most of you may cheer, I want to give my heartfelt thanks to everyone who supported my wiry bush while I had it. It is a beardist world out there, so I appreciate the love.
Why the sudden change of heart? it was very sudden. The thought crossed my mind one morning during yoga (I know, I was supposed to be concentrating on the posture, but bear with me) that I didn't want my beard, and the more I pondered the thought the more it spoke to me. A beard is like a big insulating blanket wrapped around your face at all times. Its wrapped around your face! the part of your body that is probably most important for human communication and self expression. How our energy flows through our body is essential to our health and happiness, and I was giving it a road block in the most crucial area. Two days after the initial thought I got a buzz.
  By Shaving I hoped to make my self more centered, more intentional, freer, looser, younger, more carefree, and lighter. I have felt most of those things, and I think I will shave something like once a month.

Wisdom Forest

Wisdom Forest
What is Wisdom Forest? Well I will tell ya. It is an organic farm and forest restoration project in the Ecuadorian rainforest. It grows all sorts of foods and tries to biodiversify the trees that are growing to replace the forest that was cut down. It’s run by a thoughtful hardworking guy named Bhaga who created the whole project, and does cool stuff like heating the water by running the water line through the compost a bunch of times. It is a magical place, and has been my home for the past three weeks.

The Yoga
I start my day by waking up at 6:30 to do one hour of Bakti yoga. We have an upper deck with no walls that faces due east, so as we stretch and work our bodies we have the golden, morning, equator sun warming our bodies. Bakti yoga is dynamic and we don’t hold posses for very long. It can feel like a real workout at times. The effectiveness is astonishing. In three weeks I went from being able to only touch my toes to being able to tuck my forehead between my knees. As proud as I am of that accomplishment, I have enjoyed even more learning to be in touch with my body and its feelings.

The Work
Over the three weeks I have labored at a large variety of jobs which has included trimming coca trees, weeding all over the farm, preparing compost (which involves getting wood shavings from a nearby carpenter, getting rotten vegetables from the market, sorting through the rotten vegetables and taking out all the trash (ranging from straws to diapers), and then mixing the two), planting crops, harvesting crops, and other simple farm tasks. We grow uca, coca, bananas, plantains, Chinese potatoes, tomatoes, pineapple, sugar cane, and much more. The plants are not planted in rose, but rather are a scattered mass of vegetation, which helps with permaculutur, but makes things hard to find and maintain. I learned a lot through the work. Of course I learned about planting techniques, the workings of plants, and how to use a lot of farm tools, but I was also taught a lot about really working. The main farmer Pablo worked so furiously and efficiently that I could hardly help but try and emulate him. I like to think I have picked up some of the ability to maintain focus on the task at hand and work consistently hard at it for a long time.

The Food
Oh god the food! Three meals a day we were served platters fresh platters of fried spiced and sauced fruits and vegetables. Every single meal was a masterpiece, as beautiful as it was tasteful. On occasion we would be treated with chocolate cake, made from the chocolate we grew on the farm. I assure you no food, not even pizza, has ever brought me such pleasure.


The People
A place like Wisdom Forest attracts a lot of incredible people, so I am always learning from and making new friends. We range from a simple five to a boisterous dozen people. Once at one dinner table we had people from the USA, Columbia, London, Ecuador, Ireland, Mexico, Germany, Australia, and Portugal. I have met a lot of very magical people and learned so much from all of them.


Change?
Wisdom Forest has changed me, though it can be hard to put a finger on exactly how. Perhaps I am more centered or more aware. Maybe I have a stronger capacity to feel? I no longer eat savagely and wolf down food, but chew and swallow each bite before taking another one, and I no longer feel pride in being able to eat monstrous amounts. Do I sit straighter? I dunno. I shaved my beard because I felt like it was an insulatory mask that inhibited energy flow, and I left the character who took manly pride in a big bad ass beard along with the one who ate everything. I hope not to give the impression that I am calm and serious now, I hope to always remain energetic and silly, but something isn’t quite the way it was.